Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
